El Ñuro Surfing, Peru: A Photo Essay

Our last overnight bus rolls into Mancora. We sleepwalk onto a tuk-tuk that drives through the dusty warm morning as the night slowly turns to day. Mancora is hot, busy and the surfing wave crowded and dangerous. We soon make our way south to the quiet village of El Ñuro, a little further down a dirt road we reach our destination. “This is paradise” our host and new friend Lalo says, “there is the wave”. Metres from our home for the next 2 months a wave rolls through, the water is empty, not another surfer in sight. Over the coming weeks we settle in to a new rhythm, dictated by the tide and weather. We watch the whales, turtles and seabirds and surf with our small group of new friends who have found this quiet space and made it home..

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Parque Nacional Puyehue, Chile